Moldova: this is my second trip in this small country formerly belonging to the Soviet Empire. After landing at Chisinau Airport, I will become aware, day after day, that also in this little country with big problems things are slowly changing- getting better even if among several difficulties.
In Chisinau suburbs, two huge Soviet-style buildings, which went unnoticed in my previous trip, look like a sort of gate of the city.
I lodge in a flat in Stefan Cel Mare blvd. Externally the building has the above-mentioned Soviet look, with a jail-like entrance door, dilapidated stairs and an elevator that seems a bet (will it succeed in reaching the seventh floor?).
A fat “babushka” is waiting for me. After the greetings, she hands me the keys. The flat is really nice, spacious and clean, contrasting with the austerity of the deteriorated façade. The flat provides all the possible comforts.
Lilia takes me downtown to visit, better to visit again, the centre of the city, where at each corner I see internet points, cafés and restaurants which were not there at the time of my first trip. It is my first time in “Sun city” mall as well, which reaches the same high standards of the best European malls. Life in Moldova is slowly enhancing.
Chisinau, on the banks of Byk river, is a city full of green, with parks and lakes. During World War II, air strikes destroyed almost two thirds of the old city buildings: Chisinau today is a city under reconstruction. Many ancient and impressive buildings are still present, together with cathedrals with bulb-shaped domes, mixed with ugly square gulag-grey buildings dating back to Stalin era and to the fascinating cafés which are opening everywhere. On the contrary, in the rural areas which surround the city people poor lifestyle is evident.
Apart from famous writers, Alexander Pushkin (who was exiled in Chisinau) and Mihai Eminescu, all other sculptures in town refer to war events. A statue of Stefan Cel Mare, the national hero, a sort of Moldovian Garibaldi, can be seen in Stefan Cel Mare park on the west side of the homonymous avenue.
There are many artistic and historical museums spread around the country, but the National Museum of History offers a surprising set: a life-size reconstruction of the Soviet invasion of Chisinau in 1945.
Chisinau is the perfect town for those who easily get lost: straights streets are arranged in a regular grid with the main street, Stefan Cell Mare Blvd, crossing the city from South-East to North-West. On the Northern side is located the main square, with the most important buildings and cathedrals and the Moldova Arch of Triumph. Some of the streets show Moldovan names, some other have still the Russian names and few show both new and old names.
Chisinau, the capital, is a lively city full of young energy and fun, with shops, a big park right in the centre, a national museum, restaurants, bars and handicraft markets selling souvenirs, in particular “matrioska” dolls in all shapes and colors.